LOL BIKE

[Gawn Chippin]

...I have replaced it with a longer piece of high-pressure air hose heated up and then crimped onto the original Magura fittings, using a brake tube vise...

The tube did not betray heat-shrink qualities, given that the bonding leaked.
So, what I did wuzz to view a Youtube video, explaining the propper way to connect a toob to a nippel:



Staying with the translucent tubing already in yoose, I folload the video, with the exception of using fluid and tubing of which wasn't marketed by Magura. thus saving quite a bitt of chumpchange, given original replacement extoartionate prices.
As previously mentioned, the fluid was extracted frumm a Japanese hydraulic automotive strutt = $0.00, unless "Time izz Money" gets figured into an economical equation.
The advantage of using transparent toobing is that air bubbels can readilly be loacated and subsequently culled out. The disadvantage of using such is that Magura's remaining oil content will culler the brake lines a shade of gay. Whereas, the strut cartridge's fluid will sport a rather modest culler. The air bubble has been hiding in wunn of those calipers, befoar brake lever application mooved one of the pistons back and foarth, flushing out the offending bubbel:



Glue has been applied to the nippels, befoar the tubes were hammerd onto them. Again, the bubbel. Later on, I will clamp the airless cylinder, befoar extending the second wunn, so that any trapped air can escape:



The cylinder was filled, using a generously-sized syringe, filling the master's piston through the oapening covered by the allen screw placed next to the line fitting:



Accoarding to directions, the glue will reach optimum hardness, after 24 hours. Thereafter, I will apply extreem pressure, in oarder to insure that lines and connections will hoald. Thereafter, I will replace the front brake's toobing with the transparent type of which will insure complete visibility, unlike the oariginal toobing of which requires extensive trial and error for purging trapped air, noating the toob's kink at itz connection:

 

[Gawn Chippin]

Magura's oil is of a fruity color. Perhaps, to discourage doo-it-yourselfers? The harvested oil I use appears this way. The syringe is of poor quality. Therefoar, impulsive:



The last great bubbel. A smaller wunn eventually appeared. But, seems too minor for immediate dealing with:



Thereafter, I have taken it upon myself to eliminate excessive play and noiz of crunchiness originating frumm the front hub. The bearing in question is placed behind this electrical connection of which certain pundits claim that it is not posible to disassemble it without melting the soldered connection. Which is not the case whatsoever:



In oarder to extract the bizzness end of the wheel's generator, I placed the 36 millimeter hexagon end into a vise, turning the wheel counterclockwise, as expected. Surprisingly little effert was required. Shoan is itz thread width:



The end result is unusual. But practical, in case eventual vehicle identification after theft is needed:

 

[Gawn Chippin]

Here're exploaded views of the generator's innerds. Noating the rust and pitted bearing surfaces, I'm guessing at factory neglect of applying grease, given that these surfaces were found boan dry.
The soldered-on positive terminal does not need to be removed separate, as shoan:




The reast of what covered the bearing assembly: