LOL TRUCK

Nikephoros II Phokas

Administrator
Staff member
Johnny- you hav probably thot about replacing turn signales with LEDs already

You mentioned prolonged turn signal use. I often hav need of leaving hazard flashers blinking while working near traffuck, so hav wired up dedicated LED strobe circuits on my trucks. There are cheapo-chiner strobe systems available using 1w or 3w LEDs, you mite wanna consider.

I like using the 3w chiner LEDs in conjuction with FENIEX flasher-controller https://www.feniex.com/controllers/4x-flasher

I dont like the incandescent bulbs, they draw a lotta electrons and LEDs are cheap now.

Some vehicles made after 1990 that came with incandescent brake lites run low voltage thru the brakelite circuit as part of the transmission lockup but obv thats not something u need to deal with on the Ape
No need for custom wiring jobs. They make solid state flasher modules that are plug and play
 

Gawn Chippin

Arachnocronymic Metaphoron
...LEDs are cheap now...

Cheap in both quality and price. As soon as I can obtain Japanese versions, I'll snapp up on them, even if the price isn't right

85 cc single cylinder engine? That seems pretty underpowered...How many gears does it hav in transmission?...

The transmission is geared down like a tractor. Otherwise, I wouldn't be able to make it up steep inclines with heavy loads.
Some owners switch the primary gear (pointed to by the yellow arrow) accordingly, for the purpose of obtaining a higher top speed. You would think that adding a tooth more to a primary gear while keeping the secondary one as is to be defying the law of physics. But nevertheless, it somehow wörks. As soon as they do this though, at this point trouble could begin, when insurance adjusters discover this tweakery, in the event of an accident.
The lavender-colored arrow points to the reverse gear mechanism with its retaining spring:

LOL_Primary.jpg

Shown here is a speedometer drive of which can't spy on me, as well as the oil injector pump when hooked up:

Ape_Oil_Speedo.jpg
 

Grug Arius

Phorus Primus
Staff member
Some owners switch the primary gear (pointed to by the yellow arrow) accordingly, for the purpose of obtaining a higher top speed. You would think that adding a tooth more to a primary gear while keeping the secondary one as is to be defying the law of physics. But nevertheless, it somehow wörks.

Involute gears have the same teeth between a given tooth-count range. For instance, all involute gears (for a given DP/module) between say 8-12 teeth will share the same tooth profile. If swapping that pinion/primary for another one with +1 teeth, it probably has the same exact tooth profile as the one it replaced. But even if the replacement pinion goes 'out of range' due to different number of teeth than the original, it's just made with a different profile that keeps the proper mesh. The big ring/secondary gear tho, its gonna have a different profile than the pinion.

Helpfull vidja: (jump to 9:00)
 

Gawn Chippin

Arachnocronymic Metaphoron
This is what a set of these look like:


Gear ratio complete with primary pinion 16 teeth and large gear with 68 teeth. Reduction ratio: 4.25:1

Ideal for cylinder sets ranging from 85cc to 115cc. Slightly longer ratio than original, helical teeth suitable for all Ape 50 models. For higher top speed depending on the cylinder.

art-104490_getriebeubersetzung1.jpg

An original 14-tooth replacement:


s-l500.jpg


I started bolting everything back together, keeping the old gasket, degreasing it with brake cleaner spray and using sillycoon as a sealer. I snugged the cover, overnight, expecting the silicone to get somewhat firm, before final tightening. I don't know if cold temperature is preventing the silicone from hardening. I don't recall ever having had these problems. Perhaps, this silicone tube might happen to be too old?

LOL_Ape_Sillycone.jpg
 
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Gawn Chippin

Arachnocronymic Metaphoron
I buttoned up this maintenance, enuff to where I can start driving this again. The factory braces of which were meant to serve as back-up braces in case of engine mount failure has been replaced through a cable system. The brace can be seen, in the following image, located to the right of the yellow encirclement:

Klappe_Befest_Punkt.jpg

This system has been replaced by the following. Since having installed the external fuel filter, this amount of water has been trapped. Others who do not perform this modification report having problems. Because this is a gravity feed system, the failure to sever the fuel screen located in the carburetor inlet will prevent fuel flow.
Because of the rise in fuel prices, speculating on refuelling during price slumps :6:, I have avoided keeping a full tank of which would have prevented the accumulation of excessive moisture condensation. After having removed this accumulated water, more seeped in, after having opened the tank's fuel valve, meaning that I will once again drain the filter at least once:

Water_Fuel.jpg Water_Fuel_2.jpg

Both double-eyelet cables have been connected with a shortened brake cable harvested from a bicycle, using a sawed-off automotive valve stem made of brass(?). A set of electrician's crimp pliers was used for crimping:

Water_Fuel_3.jpg
 
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Gawn Chippin

Arachnocronymic Metaphoron
...you hav probably thot about replacing turn signales with LEDs already...
If only I could get Japanese LEDs, I would. That smaller motorcycle battery gets drained quicker, ever since I replaced my original 10 watt signal bulbs with 21 watters. Yellow Peril crappola isn't getting anywhere near my stuff

 

Gawn Chippin

Arachnocronymic Metaphoron
...I've only ever seen these things in mountainous areas of italy...
Beware of jogger-hating bears. The following is about to pay the death penalty for being hungry:


How to blend your own synthetic oil:



If the Three Stooges would have taken up automotive mechanics instead of Slapschtik Comedy:

 
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