What's yer workbench wearin'?

[Grug Arius]

hydro gear variable displacement pump rebuild

due to a BROKEN BOLT that occurred during the air-bleeding process for an unrelated problem,

so hadto remove the pump to extract the broken bolt

6mm bolt was broken off at the bottom of its counterbore, but I was able to extract it by driving it around with a centerpunch

figured mite as well rebuild it since it was off its machine (a 60 inch mower)

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[Gawn Chippin]

Before I could even remove the timing belt cover on my Daihatsu, I needed to somehow remove the harmonic balacer. The Dipp who last replaced the timing belt tightened the bolt holding this assembly together to a torque specification of which superceeded the scale of my torque wrench. Because of this, I ended up fabricating a set of special tools of which held the damper in place, while I unscrewed this bolt. I found one of my luggage racks of which wouldn’t apply to my vehicle anyway and then cut it down. A pre-drilled steel plate was also found and subsequently cut to size. One of the existing holes was tapped out to 10 X 1 mm, before I screwed in a filed on both sides allen bolt of which held the rear chain-change mechanism on a bicycle (X and A). (E) also had to be cut out and filed to fit:



The filed allen bolts slip into the damper’s cut-outs and then lock into place:



Once the bolt was removed, the damper didn’t want to move either. I’m assuming that the bodger who overtightened its bolt has glued the damper onto the crankshaft. Because of this, I had to fabricate a puller, since none of my exising pullers would fit. To do this, I dug out a backing plate from an old French mofa and began stripping it down:



Here, shoan next to the overtightened bolt:



In oarder to protect the crankshaft’s threads, a 10 mm allen bolt was inserted into the crankshaft, before the new puller was applied:



Because I didn’t have an approapriate boalt, I had to lengthen the threads of an existing one. Of course, the backing plate needed to have threads cut into it:

 

[Grug Arius]

removing bolts like that on rotating assemblies without any impact gun is indeed a real bastard sometimes

 

[Gawn Chippin]

I'm certain that the Chowderhead of whoom screw'd that boalt back on was using wone of thoas toys. The timing belt was replaced, without renewing the tensioner, on this interference engine. It seems to have becumm a habit here, in this well-enriched naytion.
Here's a previously-forgotten close-up of that tool's bizzness end:



The oil pan arrived onto the wörkbench, after the amount of drained oil mismatched the amount stated as oafficial capacity. After I remooved the pan for other reasons, I noticed that oil was trapped within the baffel stampings. I then proceeded to drill strategic 4 millimeter draining hoals at the lowest levels of these baffelz:



In aorder to recover even more drainoil, I filed away unnecessary material at the drainplug's outlet:

 

[Gawn Chippin]

When lubricant becomes lubrican't. A noisey starter moater, upon Bendix release, can be saved. After having remooved it, it was free of the debris found in starter moaters mounted to vehicles with manual gearboxes. Because mine is an automatic, I suspect that additional engine heat caused the lubricant therein to varnish. The rubber boot is torn. But since no dust caused by clutch wear can enter, I just let it be:



The spring ring hoalding the starter’s clutch to the shaft was unusually stiff. In oarder not to risk breaking it, I also just left it be.
The planetary gears were accessable enuff for relubricating. The shaft and spline gear were also lubricated at the spots shoan:

 

[Gawn Chippin]

The Achilles Heel of finger-biting Japanese engine oil dipsticks repaired through splicing with heatshrink hoas

 

[Grug Arius]

acquired 10" Sheldon lathe, EXL-44B from the late 40ies or 50ies,

this thing looks to be in good condition as far as wear goes, but looks like it may hav been DROPPED or RAMMED into somethin at some time, as the crossfeed handwheel is broken off its shaft and 5 out of 6 mountin' bolts from the bed to the feet are sheared off

Thankfooly nothing serious is damaged, and I plan on removing the sheared bolts using the mill and a left hand drill bit.

Looks to hav a 3 phase 220v electricool motorb. Untested so far.

Finally, this machine doesnt look like it was ever used for produktion. It originally came from a skrewl.,..

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[Grug Arius]

the F350 broke today while pulling a loaded 16 ft trailer

went to take off from a stopsign, only got a few feet, it lurched and I heard something broke.

Had to direct rush hour traffuck thru the intersection for like half an hour so a logjam of impatient NPCs didnt occur

After that no drive at all, nor reverse. Park works.

In all positions including PARK theres a whine coming from the transamission which sounds similar to a hydraulic pump low on fluid.

The fluid looks perfect and is full.

I am speculating but because this noise occurs in PARK as well as every other gear, I am reckon the torque converter catastrophically failed. Either that or the something is broken after the front pump which is just dumping its output back into the pan

The transmission itself is a E4OD, automatic overdrive electronically controlled transamission. It was rebuilt and updated professionally in 2017 with a new or remanned TC and HD planetary carriers

Once I get this thing removed from the vehicool we will see whather I am correct or not.

Anyone else wanna take guesses?

 

[Grug Arius]

The torque converter is broken

The damage wasnt immediately apparent but the stator one way clutch inside the torque converter is busted